Every village and town boasts little old teashops with waitresses in black uniforms and white aprons who carry little notepads and pencils and serve the tea from trays. Yet is possible to forget the tradition of afternoon tea for months or years.

However, once in a while, after a walk, or on holiday you can suddenly find yourself sipping hot tea and eating cucumber sandwiches, and while you do so you always vow that it is so nice that you will do it regularly.

A bone china tea service sits on a pure white tablecloth. The tea is piping hot and strong and there are cucumber sandwiches, scones with strawberry jam and cream and a selection of cakes and biscuits. The experience is artistic, gentle, relaxing and sociable.

Maybe the answer to our binge drinking culture is to close pubs early and encourage tea shops to stay open 24 hours.